The "perfect burger" needs "liberal" salting
Timed perhaps for Independence Day grilling, the New York Times just ran a story about the uniquely American quest to build the "perfect burger." As their promotion makes clear, the bar's been raised in recent years:
The modern ascent of the burger can be traced to Daniel Boulud eight years ago at DB Bistro Moderne in New York City. Since that momentous event, chefs have learned many secrets to a tasty gourmet burger. Fat and salt are key, and a warm crispy bun can make the entree. (emphasis added)
The consensus emerging after interviewing 30 leading chefs offers some surprises:
- Choose high quality (choice or prime) meat with at least 25% fat; 30% is better -- grind it fresh if you're a true gourmand.
- Shape the patty relatively loosely with a thumb-indented "dimple."
- Salt "liberally" (see below).
- Sear using very, very hot temperatures and then, complete the cooking by baking in an oven -- temperature is the most reliable testing for done-ness.
- Use a warm and crispy bun and fresh fixin's.
All the chefs agree that salt is crucial. Whether you’re using kosher, table or sea salt, you should be pretty liberal with it. Beef can take more salt than you think. Most chefs recommended seasoning the burger just before cooking it.
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