Bon Appetit contributor John Hastings provides an informed and spirited review of the salt and health controversy "The Saline Solution " in the May issue.
Why salt? he asks, answering
It combats bitterness and penetrates proteins on a cellular level, and when used to make a brine, it leaves meats juicier and more delicious. ...
Happily, when my father visits nowadays, he doesn't harass me about salt, and I'd like to believe it's because I've finally convinced him that salt isn't evil. You see, his weight—like mine—is normal, and we have healthy blood pressure. We're active. We're smart eaters. Most of our meals are made with fresh or minimally processed ingredients. And for people like us, here's a little secret: Salt isn't a problem.
He reviews the role of sodium and blood pressure volume and pressure, noting that the mechanism is well-understood and -accepted. He continues to explain why "(t)he controversy arises":
In 2008, researchers at the Albert Einstein College of Medicine in New York decided to study the impact salt has on health by examining the data collected from the Third National Health and Nutrition Examination Surveys (NHANES III). This national survey includes detailed information from thousands of Americans gathered via in-person interviews and medical examinations. When scientists looked at data collected from nearly 9,000 people ages 30 and older, they found something surprising: High sodium intake alone did not increase a person's risk of dying from cardiovascular disease.
My emphasis. He concludes with an admonition to use iodized salt in cooking and at the table.
So, Hastings says: "Do you feel guilty every time you reach for the salt? Our finding will help you shake that feeling -- and save your dinner."
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